Standing water collects in one corner of my yard after every heavy rain. For years I accepted the soggy patch as an unavoidable nuisance, until soggy turned to smelly and the lawn began to thin. A French drain fixed it. I dug, I learned, I hired help for the heavy parts, and I paid attention to grading and outlet placement. The choices I made — where to route the pipe, whether to rent a mini-excavator, what gravel to buy, and whether to trust the contractor who quoted per linear foot — changed the price and how long the job took. This article lays out realistic costs, the typical timeline, and the decisions that determine both.
Why a French drain matters A French drain is a simple idea: collect groundwater or surface runoff with a perforated pipe placed in a gravel-filled trench, and move it to a lower spot or to a storm system. For yards with poor surface drainage, compacted soil, or downspouts that dump near foundations, it is one of the most reliable backyard water drainage solutions. It addresses standing water in backyard areas, protects foundations, improves lawn health, and reduces mosquito habitat.
How a French drain works, briefly A trench, sloped away from the problem area, holds a perforated pipe surrounded by coarse gravel. Water seeps through the gravel into the pipe and flows to a discharge point. Usually the trench is wrapped in filter fabric to keep soil from clogging the gravel. The components are modest, but correct slope, proper outlet, and competent installation determine long-term performance.
Common situations where a French drain is appropriate If water pools more than a day after heavy rain, if the soil remains saturated where grass dies back, or if downspouts and roof runoff flood a slope, a French drain is a good candidate. It is also useful when you can’t regrade the yard to move water naturally, or as part of a larger backyard stormwater drainage plan.
Cost components and typical ranges Breaking the job into components helps understand where money goes and why contractors quote wide ranges.
Materials
- Perforated pipe: 4-inch corrugated pipe is most common. Cost is about $0.40 to $1.50 per linear foot for the pipe alone; smooth PVC alternatives cost more but last longer in some soils. Gravel: Coarse washed gravel is recommended. Expect to use 1.5 to 3 cubic yards of gravel for every 50 feet of trench, depending on trench size. Gravel costs roughly $30 to $80 per cubic yard, delivered. Filter fabric: A roll covers several trenches and typically costs $20 to $80. Outlet structures and daylighting components: Simple PVC cleanouts or pop-up emitters add $20 to $200 depending on complexity. Restoration materials: Topsoil, seed, or sod for repair after trenching can add $100 to $500.
Tools and equipment If doing it yourself, physical labor is the main cost. Renting a trenching attachment or a mini-excavator speeds work and reduces fatigue. Expect rental rates from about $150 to $400 per day for a compact trencher or $250 to $600 per day for a mini-excavator, plus fuel and delivery. Hand tools and wheelbarrow are inexpensive but slow.
Labor Contractor pricing varies widely by region, site conditions, and whether the job requires daytime to drive to storm sewer connection or dealing with utilities. Typical contractor ranges:
- Basic residential installation, easy access, straight run: $25 to $100 per linear foot installed. Complex sites with rocks, roots, or long runs and landscaping restoration: $50 to $150 per linear foot. Price per linear foot usually includes trenching, pipe, gravel, and backfill, but verify details. Hourly labor rates for individual workers run roughly $35 to $80 per hour depending on region and company.
Permit and disposal Most simple backyard French drains that discharge to a yard or natural swale do not require a permit, but connecting to the municipal storm sewer often does. If permits are required, budget $50 to $500 for permits and inspection costs. If the job generates contaminated soil or large volumes of spoil, disposal fees may apply.
Total project cost examples
- DIY small patch, 20 feet: If you hand-dig, use 4-inch pipe, wrapped fabric, and local gravel, expect $200 to $800 in materials and a weekend of labor. Mid-range contractor job, 50 feet: A professional installing a standard French drain with moderate grading and outlet to a swale will commonly total $1,500 to $7,500. Complex project, 100+ feet with landscaping and storm sewer tie-in: Expect $5,000 to $20,000. Projects at the upper end usually need heavy equipment, significant grading, and possibly retaining wall work.
Why the ranges are wide Soil type, slope, obstacles, distance to an acceptable outlet, and your location matter more than pipe cost. Rocky soil or a root-filled route slows excavation and increases labor. Long hauls for spoil or gravel, or working in a tight urban yard with limited equipment access, pushes prices upward.
Timeline: from planning to grass Project length depends on scope and weather. Here is a typical timeline for a small-to-medium residential installation.
Planning and site assessment: 1 day to 1 week You need to determine where water collects, locate an outlet or decide on a dry well, and identify buried utilities. If you hire a contractor, they will often handle the site assessment and mark utilities. If you call 811 backyard stormwater drainage for utility locates, allow a few days for scheduling.
Design and permitting: same day to 2 weeks A basic French drain often needs no permit; if you plan to connect to a public storm drain or alter drainage patterns dramatically, check local codes. Permit reviews can take days or weeks depending on jurisdiction.
Excavation and pipe installation: 1 to 3 days for a typical yard For a straight 30 to 60 foot run with minimal obstacles, professionals usually excavate and lay pipe in a day, then backfill on the second. For longer runs, or if hand-digging, count several days. Renting an excavator shortens this step to a day or two but requires transport and time to learn safe operation.
Gravel backfill and fabric wrapping: same day to 2 days Putting in gravel and properly installing filter fabric takes time. If the crew works efficiently, it follows excavation the same day. If you are working alone, this step is often the most tiring.
Outlet construction and testing: same day Connecting the pipe to a pop-up emitter, daylighting it into a swale, or tying into the storm system happens quickly once pipe is in place. Test runs during a simulated rain or with a garden hose can confirm slope and flow before final backfill.
Final grading, landscaping, and cure: 1 day to 2 weeks Replace topsoil, seed or sod, and allow seeded areas to germinate. Sod looks finished immediately; seeded areas take longer to stabilize. Excess moisture in the yard may delay seeding until the soil is workable.
Real-world example: my backyard job In my case, a 40-foot run to a dry swale, with a shallow trench about 12 inches wide and 18 inches deep, took two days of excavation with a mini-excavator and one day of gravel and pipe work. I rented the machine for two days at $300 per day, bought 2 cubic yards of gravel for $90, pipe for $70, and paid a helper $200 for one day. Total cost about $1,300 and the yard was usable immediately, though seeded areas took three weeks to thicken.
Key decisions that affect cost and timeline Choosing pipe type, deciding who does the digging, outlet selection, and how fully you restore the lawn all change the project.
Pipe choice: corrugated versus smooth Corrugated HDPE pipe is cheap and flexible, great for curves and basic installs. Smooth PVC or ADS smooth interior pipe drains slightly faster and is easier to jet if maintenance is needed, but cost is higher. For most backyard uses, corrugated 4-inch perforated pipe is a reasonable choice.
Trench depth and slope A proper slope is essential. I aim for 1 percent slope, roughly a 1 foot drop every 100 feet, or at least 0.5 percent if terrain limits allow. In practice, most residential runs use 1/8 to 1/4 inch per foot. Deeper trenches increase cost dramatically because of more excavation and greater need to handle groundwater pressure.
Outlet options and implications Daylighting the pipe into a lower area, connecting to a storm sewer, or discharging to a dry well are the main options. Daylighting into a swale is cheapest and permanent if the swale can accept the flow. Tying into municipal sewers often requires permits, fees, and professional plumbers. Dry wells require space and sometimes engineering if groundwater is high.
DIY versus contractor: trade-offs Doing it yourself saves money but costs time and physical effort. If your yard is simple, the savings are substantial: a DIY 30-foot run might cost $300 to $800 in materials and rental, compared with $1,200 to $3,000 for a contractor. Hiring professionals reduces risk of improper slope, utility strikes, bad outlets, or clogged drains from skipped fabric. Contractors also bring experience navigating permits and unforeseen problems.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
- Underestimating slope requirements or installing pipe flat will slow or stop flow. Use a level or string line and measure elevation change. Skipping filter fabric is tempting but invites soil migration and early clogging. Choosing the wrong gravel size. Fines in the fill will lead to silt buildup; washed 3/4-inch crushed stone is standard. Placing the outlet where it can flood a neighbor or violate local rules. Confirm discharge is legal and acceptable to adjacent property owners. Ignoring utility locates. A struck utility is dangerous and costly.
Permits, codes, and environmental considerations Local codes vary about discharges to storm sewers and drains. Many municipalities forbid connections of private drains to the sanitary sewer, but allow storm sewer ties with permits. Some areas have stormwater ordinances limiting how you alter runoff. When in doubt, call your municipal public works or a licensed contractor who understands local rules.
Maintenance and expected lifespan A properly installed French drain with fabric and clean gravel will function for many years. If tree roots invade the pipe or fine silt enters, the drain performance can decline. Simple maintenance includes occasional jetting with water or inspecting accessible cleanouts annually. Expect decades of service with minimal maintenance if installed correctly.
When to call a pro immediately If water accumulates near the foundation, especially in basements that backyard drainage solutions show active seepage, contact a qualified backyard drainage contractor or foundation specialist. Foundation issues can be costly and require careful management to redirect water without damaging structures. Also call a pro when your property has steep slopes, ledge, or extensive roots that make excavation dangerous.
Checklist before you dig
- Locate utilities and wait for markings. Confirm outlet location and obtain permits if required. Mark the trench path and check elevations for sufficient slope. Estimate gravel and pipe needs, order materials ahead of time. Arrange equipment rental or crew availability for continuous work.
Deciding whether a French drain is enough A French drain manages subsurface water and slow-moving surface runoff. It will not fix all problems. For large surface runoff, consider combining yard grading for drainage with swales or catch basins. For repeated, heavy flows from gutters, downspout extensions or additional drains may be necessary. Sometimes a combination of grading, surface drains, and French drains provides robust backyard flooding solutions.
Final thoughts on value A properly placed French drain is an investment in yard usability and property protection. Costs range from a few hundred dollars for a DIY fix to the low five figures for complex contractor installations. Timeframes are short for straightforward jobs, but planning, permits, and landscape restoration add days to weeks. When evaluating bids, ask for a breakdown of trenching, materials, outlet work, and restoration, and verify the contractor’s experience with projects like yours.
If you want, I can help estimate materials and likely cost for your yard based on square footage, soil type, and where you can locate an outlet. I can also walk through how to measure slope and calculate how much gravel and pipe you will need.